7 Defining Moments From Paris Fashion Week FW25

Paris is always a balancing act—between chaos and control, excess and restraint, the runway and reality. This season at Paris Fashion Week FW25, designers staked their claims across that spectrum. Dior reworked its own history into something sharp and sculptural, Amiri leaned unapologetically into maximalism, and Rick Owens, as ever, operated in a world entirely his own. But not every collection justified its moment in the spotlight. Some wielded quiet luxury with precision, others lost themselves in the pursuit of experimentation, and a few barely made a case for being on the schedule at all.

Dior – A New Look in Menswear

Without context, Dior Men’s FW25/26 felt like a dialogue between past and present. The references were immediate—echoes of Christian Dior’s legacy stitched into every silhouette, a collision of archival precision and modern intent. It almost demands a new phrase: “It’s such a new look.”

The show opened with models in blindfolds—a theatrical nod to surrender, trust, or perhaps the unseen hand of heritage guiding the collection. From there, familiar motifs took form: exaggerated baggy trousers paired with sharply cinched jackets, a direct nod to the 1948 Pondichéry collection. The color palette stayed within a disciplined range—grays, blacks, whites, and shell pinks—allowing texture and construction to take center stage. Glass beadwork replaced pinstripes, woven seamlessly into herringbone patterns, adding a quiet opulence to otherwise restrained tailoring. The male Saddle Bag, first introduced in SS20, returned with a quiet confidence, reinforcing Dior’s throughlines. And then there was the single dangling earring—a small but deliberate act of subversion.

The collection was built on drape. Minimal color, minimal embellishment, yet every look carried weight, movement, and expression. The tailoring was beyond technical—it was sculptural, proof that restraint doesn’t mean compromise. The drama came from how the fabric interacted with the body, from how folds and volume created a natural cadence. It was minimalism with tension, the kind that feels deliberate rather than spare.

With this collection, Kim Jones reaffirmed his place as one of the most compelling menswear designers of the moment. The evolution from his streetwear-infused beginnings to this kind of refined experimentation is a masterclass in range. His work doesn’t just honor Dior’s legacy—it extends the conversation. A study in precision, softness, and balance. Bravo.

Songzio– A Disjointed Journey, Redeemed in the Finale

Songzio’s FW25/26 collection thrived on contrast—tweed clashing with latex, structured forms interrupted by soft ruffles—but at times, the tension felt unresolved.

Rooted in the Baroque drama of Diego Velázquez, the collection layered historical references with avant-garde Eastern influences, creating a dialogue between past and present. But not every piece spoke the same language. The outerwear, particularly the wool coats and trenches, felt like an afterthought, missing the precision that defined the sharper silhouettes. Repetition also dulled the impact—Bermuda-cut pants appeared again and again, stretching an idea that might have been stronger in restraint.

Then came the shift. A single sweater—brushed with an abstract jousting scene, the word “father” inscribed beneath—offered something more intimate, more deliberate. Styled with ruffled collars and deep brown trousers, it felt like a quiet revelation, proof of the brand’s ability to land an emotional note when it counts.

If this season was about experimentation, next season calls for refinement. With a tighter edit and a sharper hand in outerwear, Songzio has the groundwork to turn contrast into cohesion—and land with greater impact.

Amiri – Maximalism Meets 70s Opulence

Decadence. Amiri’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection reveled in excess, trading restraint for full-throttle glamour. Where others leaned into quiet luxury, Amiri dialed up the volume.

The runway was a collision of color and texture—sumptuous velvet, high-shine leather, and glinting embellishments that caught the light with every step. Opening with an explosion of saturated hues, the collection embraced its own theatricality, each look layering on more opulence. Accessories made their own statement: exaggerated loafers, sharp ties, and structured bags that redefined traditional menswear codes. The real standout? Velvet trousers that walked the fine line between lavish and effortless, proving the fabric’s staying power beyond nostalgia.

Yet, for all its maximalism, the collection never lost its grip. Cohesion came through in the silhouettes—kept consistent even as fabrics, patterns, and embellishments shifted. This throughline allowed Amiri’s indulgence in texture and color to feel intentional rather than chaotic.

Despite the riot of patterns and textures, there was method to the madness. The ’70s served as an anchor, grounding the collection’s play on extravagance without veering into costume. It was a masterclass in controlled chaos—one that indulged in nostalgia without ever feeling outdated.

Rick Owens – Perpetually Ahead of the Curve

Rick Owens’ FW25/26 collection unfolded like a slow-burning spectacle—controlled, unsettling, and utterly hypnotic. Opening in his signature abyss of black before giving way to stark whites and muted neutrals, the show was less about color and more about form. Silhouettes stretched and warped, textures fought for dominance, and fringe—endless, inescapable fringe—cascaded down boots that seemed engineered to defy wearability.

Owens has never been concerned with practicality, and this season was no exception.

But to reduce his work to mere provocation would be a disservice. Beneath the dystopian theater, Owens delivered what he always does: razor-sharp tailoring, wide-collared coats with an almost clerical severity, and boots that reasserted his grip on avant-garde masculinity. His universe is extreme, but within the spectacle lies something deeply methodical. Owens isn’t just creating clothes; he’s sustaining a world—one where the rules don’t bend, they break entirely.

Hermès – Quiet Luxury, Perfected (Maybe Too Perfect)

Where other designers leaned into excess, Hermès FW25/26 stayed firmly in its lane: restrained, polished, and utterly predictable. A muted palette of black, gray, brown, and navy set the tone, with brief flashes of red and orange offering the only disruption. Leather, naturally, reigned supreme, softened by cashmere, velvet, and silk—materials that whispered luxury rather than declared it.

Tailoring was precise, almost surgical—slim trousers, structured suiting, and the ever-present trench coat forming a clean, controlled uniform. Accessories followed suit, with sleek leather bags, silk scarves, and understated jewelry completing the picture. It was a masterclass in minimalism, but one that never quite surprised.

Hermès excels at refinement, at the art of making luxury look effortless. But in a season defined by risk and reinvention, its steadfast commitment to subtlety felt less like quiet confidence and more like a refusal to engage. Timeless? Absolutely. Exciting? Not quite.

Lemarie & Ami – Quiet Simplicity vs. Missed Potential at Paris Fashion Week FW25

If a collection doesn’t demand a stage, does it need a runway? Lemarie’s presentation, while polished, lacked the sense of purpose that makes a show feel necessary. The muted layering, subdued palette, and overly careful styling made it feel more like a showroom display than a fashion week moment. While the pieces themselves were wearable, the collection didn’t push forward an idea or point of view, leaving little to hold onto beyond its practicality.

Ami, by contrast, embraced a refined, quiet luxury that felt more in step with the moment. The silhouettes were sleek, the tailoring precise, and the overall effect was effortless in its sophistication. Still, while undeniably stylish, it lacked the kind of tension or urgency that might have made it linger in memory. A collection built on restraint can still surprise—this one simply didn’t.