New York Fashion Week: SS25 Review
- Pampler Editorial Team
- Sep 16, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: Aug 22
New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 unfolded as both a reflection of the city’s kinetic energy and a barometer for fashion’s shifting priorities. Less a singular spectacle than a fragmented chorus of ideas, this season oscillated between nostalgia and reinvention—some designers doubling down on signature codes, others embracing disruption with mixed results. The runway, as always, served as a mirror to the moment: bold, uncertain, and restless.
Yet beneath the theatrics, a quieter narrative lingers. A recent report from the Partnership for New York City suggests NYFW has “lost some of its prominence,” as designers and graduates look elsewhere to establish their footing. The study calls for a recalibration—greater investment, stronger support for emerging talent—to reclaim the city's place as an incubator of new fashion thought. Whether that resurgence is imminent or illusory remains the season’s open question.
Ralph Lauren's World Building
Ralph Lauren’s off-calendar presentation, staged against the backdrop of NYFW’s frenzy, reaffirmed the brand’s singular hold on American luxury. More than a collection, it was a masterclass in world-building—an unshakable vision of affluence, heritage, and aspiration. The Olympics sponsorship, paired with a theatrically staged Hamptons-inspired show, underscored Lauren’s enduring role as both a storyteller and a symbol of American elegance. Logistical headaches aside, this carefully choreographed spectacle proved once again that Ralph Lauren isn’t just protecting an aesthetic—it’s preserving an institution.
Off-White's New York Fashion Week Revival
Off-White’s SS25 collection, DUTY FREE, signaled a restrained yet promising recalibration. Stripping back the logo-heavy aesthetics of past seasons, the brand leaned into sharper tailoring and a more considered approach to design. The basketball motif, though visually present, felt conceptually adrift, leaving the show’s production somewhat disjointed. Still, beneath the uneven execution was a sense of quiet reinvention—an attempt to move beyond the brand’s celebrity-fueled legacy toward something more enduring.
The question remains: Can Off-White sustain this evolution, or will it always be chasing the ghosts of its past?
Collina Strada’s SS25: A Pastoral Plea, Lost in the Noise
Collina Strada’s SS25 collection leaned into its signature clash of whimsy and rebellion—ruffled silhouettes, chaotic layering, and textures that felt pulled from a dreamscape. But beneath the playful disorder, something felt unmoored. The brand’s usual irreverence gave way to a collection that lacked a clear throughline, as if torn between earnest eco-commentary and the restless churn of Gen Z micro-trends.
There were moments of brilliance—unexpected draping, a few standout prints—but the overall execution felt more frenzied than forward-thinking. A plea to touch grass, perhaps, but one tangled in its own overgrowth.
Tory Burch’s Modern Classicism
Tory Burch’s SS25 collection was a study in restraint and refinement, a confident step toward an identity that has long felt just out of reach. This season, the designer’s once-muted aesthetic sharpened into something distinctly her own—sleek, assured, and quietly compelling. The bags, in particular, stole the spotlight, each one a lesson in understated luxury. Classic silhouettes met modern ease, signaling a brand no longer in search of itself but firmly stepping into a new era of American fashion—one that feels both polished and personal.
Theophilio’s Sleek Elegance
Back on the NYFW stage after a hiatus, Theophilio’s SS25 collection was a refined exercise in modern femininity. Slip dresses, fluid yet structured, anchored the lineup—elegant in their simplicity, deliberate in their execution. This season marked a shift toward sleek sophistication, trading past exuberance for a quieter confidence. With a sharp eye for form and fabric, Theophilio reaffirmed its presence, proving that restraint can be just as commanding as boldness.
Sandy Liang’s Nostalgia with A Hint of Disarray
Sandy Liang’s SS25 collection dazzled with exquisite fabrics and meticulous tailoring, reinforcing her signature nostalgic touches—star-shaped purses, mini bow appliqués, and rhinestone-encrusted hair clips that nod to girlhood. The renaissance-inspired headpieces and delicate accessorizing added an extra layer of whimsy. However, while the collection succeeded in creating individual standout moments, it struggled with thematic coherence. The juxtaposition of tailored satin work dresses, gingham sets, and sheer skirts felt disconnected, oscillating between girlhood, debutante, and camp aesthetics.
Although Liang’s intention was to craft a "modern-day spy girl" narrative, this concept wasn’t immediately clear through the designs themselves. The playful shapeshifting that the brand aimed to capture seemed more like competing ideas rather than a unified vision. Still, the collection shone in its craftsmanship, and several pieces—particularly the tailored silhouettes—proved that the Sandy Liang girl remains booked, busy, and full of nostalgic charm, even if the spy theme didn’t fully come across.
Carolina Herrera’s Floral Dilemma
Carolina Herrera’s SS25 collection teetered between refinement and repetition. The house’s signature florals—once emblematic of timeless elegance—now felt like an overplayed refrain, muting the impact of otherwise well-executed silhouettes. Where the collection succeeded, it did so with structured tailoring and a sharpness that hinted at untapped potential. A reimagining of Herrera’s relationship with print could breathe new life into the brand, shifting it from predictability to something more compelling.
Brandon Maxwell’s Minimalist Elegance
Brandon Maxwell’s SS25 show embraced the "less is more" philosophy, presenting a collection that exuded sensuality through minimalist design. The show’s understated yet striking approach demonstrated Maxwell’s keen ability to convey sophistication through simplicity.
Grace Ling’s Edgy Wearability
Grace Ling’s collection stood out for its edge and wearability, perfectly capturing a strong New York vibe. The presence of Alex Consani further amplified this effect, making the show one of the most memorable presentations of the season.
Closing with Luar, Showstopper of the Season
Luar’s Spring 2025 show hit with the force of a city that never stops moving. Raul Lopez’s En Boca Quedó collection was sharp, confrontational, and unapologetically New York—warped leopard prints, sculptural knee-high boots, and razor-sharp tailoring colliding in a display of controlled chaos.
Madonna watched from the front row as models moved through a space charged with tension and bravado. Lopez continues to pull from personal history and streetwise resilience, turning his runway into a conversation about power, survival, and the sheer audacity of taking up space.
As NYFW SS25 wraps up, certain brands seem ready to carry forward the essence of New York's fashion scene, even as the industry faces challenges. With fewer designers choosing the city as their base, as highlighted by the recent Partnership for New York City report, the need for reinvention has never been more urgent.
Yet, this season also emphasized the importance of continuity, with key brands embodying the resilience and creativity that define American fashion. The trends and standout moments from SS25 will undoubtedly fuel the ongoing conversation around New York’s role in shaping the industry's future.
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