Men’s Fashion Week Spring 2026: Tradition in Milan, New Blood in Paris

How Milan’s Stripped-Back Approach Contrasts with Paris’s Packed Roster, Setting the Stage for What’s Next in Menswear

Milan Fashion Week Men’s Anticipated Highlights

The men’s fashion calendar is changing. It is thinning, shifting, and recalibrating. While Paris is stacking debuts and dramas, Milan is playing a quieter hand this season. However, that doesn’t mean it’s without its moments. With Spring 2026 fast approaching, Milan Men’s Fashion Week (June 20–24) offers a stripped-back but telling preview of where Italian menswear stands now—and where it may or may not be heading.

Setchu Steps Up

In the absence of Federico Cina, a new opener has emerged. Satoshi Kuwata’s Setchu—fresh off a guest slot at Pitti Uomo—officially kicks off Milan’s schedule with his first full runway presentation on June 20. This is a minimal yet meaningful shift. It signals growing support for Japanese-Italian craft hybrids and quiet luxury done with soul.

Who’s Sitting This One Out?

Gucci and Fendi are both missing from the Milan lineup—again. Demna’s inaugural collection for Gucci is being reserved for a September co-ed debut. The house continues its placeholder studio-designed men’s offerings in the meantime. At Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi is also saving her next show for September, following a well-received centennial presentation earlier this year.

Zegna, a longtime closer, is off the Milan grid entirely. Alessandro Sartori is rerouting to Dubai, marking the brand’s first international runway and unofficially opening the Spring 2026 men’s season on June 11.

Other Notable No-Shows

JW Anderson is absent as Jonathan Anderson shifts focus to his Dior Men debut in Paris later this month. Luca Magliano, a fixture of Milan’s rising menswear class, is also missing.

The Ones Who Came Back

There are still some steady hands. Etro returns to the presentation format on June 22. This continues Marco De Vincenzo’s split approach: co-ed runway for fall, men’s presentations in spring. Saul Nash, following up on his Fall 2025 debut, is back for a second round. Bally will show a co-ed collection, currently without a creative director, following Simone Bellotti’s quiet departure to Jil Sander.

A Soft Landing

With Zegna out, Giorgio Armani steps in to close the week on June 23. This reminds us that Milan may be shifting, but it still values tradition. It’s a season that speaks more in absence than arrival, but the silences are telling.

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Paris Fashion Week Men’s: Controlled Shifts, Weighted Returns, and One Very Hot Ticket

If Milan felt unusually quiet this season, Paris is speaking in full sentences. A week of 70 brands—40 on the runway—sets the tone not with volume but with choreography. The Spring 2026 men’s collections (June 24–29) are less about surprise and more about quiet assertion. This is a recalibration of who belongs where, and why.

Starting Off Strong

Paris kicks off June 24 with the usual institutional nod: the graduating class from Institut Français de la Mode takes the stage. Pharrell Williams and Louis Vuitton close out day one as expected—big names to set the tone. Earlier that day, Ryota Iwai presents for rising label Auralee, while Anthony Vaccarello returns Saint Laurent to the official calendar after a brief absence.

Who’s Back and Ready

Grace Wales Bonner makes a notable return on June 25 after skipping January’s runway. She is fresh off a standout Met Gala. Emily Adams Bode Aujla reappears on June 27 following a high-profile Super Bowl collaboration. Craig Green, displaced by London’s canceled June shows, moves his Paris slot to June 29, closing the week with his signature cerebral touch.

New and Noteworthy

Julian Klausner debuts as the new creative force behind Dries Van Noten’s menswear on June 26. This marks a reshuffle in the lineup as Rick Owens switches places with the label. Owens himself presents on June 26, ahead of his “Temple of Love” retrospective opening June 28 at Palais Galliera.

Willy Chavarria, after an impactful January debut, returns on June 27 with expectations high.

The Show Everyone’s Watching

Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Men debut on June 27 is the headline moment. Anticipation is at a fever pitch. Many are curious how his signature aesthetic will reinterpret Dior’s legacy.

Closing Notes

Simon Porte Jacquemus wraps the men’s shows this season. Last time, he delivered an intimate experience. Details on this year’s format and location remain under wraps.

Lanvin sits out after Peter Copping’s debut last season, shifting focus back to ready-to-wear. Unlike previous seasons, menswear will no longer lead straight into haute couture, which is set for July 7–10. Michael Rider’s Celine debut, notably, is scheduled for July 6.

A packed, strategic week—Paris men’s fashion shows flexing legacy, fresh blood, and careful timing. The season isn’t just about who’s present, but who’s making their mark right now.